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The bar top ready to be ripped and cut and hopefully fitted. We actually bought the bar top from Bunnings for about $99 yes it wasn’t exactly cheap nor was to expensive. But the idea was to give the bar a nice top. The idea also was to rip it, and use par of it as a kicker board.
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Cut some wood… notice the site supervisor making sure we are doing it right
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Glue… screw, brad nail
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Cut more ply… Rimu the supervisor making sure it was correct.
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Behind the bar. Room for a possible bar fridge, shelves and maybe a sink. (eventually I have decided against the sink for a variety of reasons)
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Yes it will fit…
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First coat of paint… will then bog the screw holes and some of the defections in the ply and put 2 more coats on. Then bar top on.
The paint we got from ‘Resene’ as a mis-tint for $40 for 4 litres. The funny thing is, it is not to far off the colour of the house… lol
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The front… painted, ready for bar top and kicker board (see first image)
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Bar top on and kicker board on.
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One outdoor (under deck bar) are you being served!
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Well the other projects are on hold have a bar what else do I need.
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Starting to stock the bar.
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Till we decide to put sink and bar fridge in then we this will have to do…
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Outdoor Bar Entertainment – Wind break wall
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Build frame on deck… luckily someone already built the deck… good call.
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Put frame in position and put clear vue corrugated.
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Screw in.
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Get drink… oh look a bar…
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Putting in last few.
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Putting in last few panels. “Rimu” the site manager inspecting the the entire job. For our over seas views click here for info on Rimu.
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Last one in and done
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Bar area set
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weep the floor…
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Return the tools…
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Return the tools…
Outdoor Bar
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build out and around first flush… put in one meaty cross beam that can take the weight of…???
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Cut H3 treated 12mm Ply and screw in
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More paint.
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Paint.
Since part of the out door bar is under a deck, when it rains it pours… So to make this part more weather proof I have use some “PVC Core Flute Plastic” and a ton of Modified silicon to seal it in between the joists to catch the water from the upper deck, and angled down to drain out over the “corrugated clear light”
This is stage one of water proofing the bar area using PVC core flute angled to drain the water down and out over the side. I also had to about use 20 million gallons of modified silicon. Stage two will be to actually get some lino and lay it on the upper deck which will stop most of the water coming through, the PVC will catch the remainder. Stage 3 if any is getting through then is it will still have to come through 12mm H3 treated ply which will be painted and sealed. But I can see even stage one on its own catching and stopping 90% of the water leaks. (I have been putting it up when it rains to see the leaks… and at present in average rain it is PDG (Pretty Darn Good)
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A lot of sealant and I mean a lot
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I have added alot more sealant since these photo’s and am confidant it will work well on its own. From what I can tell I hopefully have got all the holes and have not seen any leaks in the last few rainy days… I am now confidant to even leave my tools out and under it.
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Cutting the ply for ceiling
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Another piece up and ready for trim and paint.
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Ceiling, painted ready for electrian to wire up power.
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Outdoor Bar – Wiring
Starting of the wiring up. Kind of means I have to make my mind up where things are going.
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Bar lights
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Accessory light
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Bar light mounted and wired
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Upper plug, 3 way light switch and lower plug. ( you will have to wait and see…)
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The lower plug
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Accessory light mounted and wired. ( you will have to wait and see…)
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Wiring and plug for Bar Fridge
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Outdoor Lighting
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Bar lights all go…
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Bar lights all go…
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Accessory lights go…
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Deck lights go…
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Deck lights go…
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Deck lights go…
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Main deck lighting is a go…
Its all go around here
Waterproofing
Since the bar is built under a deck and the deck above was not designed to have a water proof room below it, we had to come up with a way to stop and drain the water away from the new room and bar area under this deck. I came up with idea of a three stage process.
Stage one was using the PVC core flute to catch and drain the out from under the deck. Whilst this catches most of the water it is impossible to catch it all because the the upper deck was added to the house and wasn’t to have anything below it.
Stage two and the most important one basically stop the water on the other side of the deck and drain it off the side, to do this we put a layer of polyethylene, then a layer of H3 treated plywood so we can then put down a layer of PVC lino. This is a double layer of water proofing with the polyethylene and lino (both being PVC) The ply is just purely there to make the lino easier to lay on a flat surface. It also means it won’t crease to the shape of the deck. Finally we will put a layer or outdoor carpet this is because wet lino is slippery and not as attractive as carpet. Basically the carpet is the fake grass looking stuff, but grey instead of green.
The final stage is the ceiling itself, if by chance any water gets through this, the ceiling is H3 treated ply not GiB, or MDF or the like… so it can handle a little bit of water. But since stage two has been done I have not seen any sign of water coming from the upper deck and am confident of it working.
All wood used including the ply is H3.2 treated and therefore can handle getting wet without rotting.
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Cutting polyethylene on main lower deck
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Cutting ply on main deck
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Side deck with polyethylene laid and laying the ply ready for the lino.
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Lino laid even goes up under the sliding door and all.
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Lino and polyethylene trimmed ready for a nice flashing of some description.
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Oh and new section done… ready for some french doors… might have to make them myself. Then lin the walls
French Doors
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I bought two sheets of laminated pine 2100mm x 900mm x 30mmand decided to see if I could make my own french doors for the bar instead of buying some. The cheapest second hand set was over $700. Then on top of that giving them a tidy up and making them fit. That bit rich in a single hit for this kid. But I can spread it out over a couple of pay days and buy the materials required and make at work.
So far I have spent about $350 and expect to pay in total around $450. I am lucky that I work as a plastic fabricator and got the acrylic at cost.
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Then router out the rebate for the window… on all pieces first a 10mm cut, then a 15mm cut. We took turns.
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Cutting part of the rebate off on bandsaw. Hayden did this while I hand cut the first part by hand.
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Setting up the Dowl jig. You can also see the rebate
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Dowl in… and glued ready for the full glue up. This was handy having Hayden to help.
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Clamping…
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The acrylic cut and test fitted. (ready for trimmings) and the peel the covers off. that the last thing we do.
We have decided to make a minor alteration to help stop any warping. Then the doors will get treated and painted. I would like to thank Hayden for helping make the doors. Was handy with clamping having the second pair of hands.
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Sanding … and sanding… there was more sanding… and that was just one side… three more sides to do.
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Since these are out side doors I decided to treat the wood first with a product called “MetalX”. You brush it on like any other product and it just soaks into the wood. This will stop any rot etc. It does taint the wood but since I am painting them anyway it is not going to be a problem. This way if down the track the paint is wearing off the weather isn’t going to bother the wood because it is treated.
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Applying the “MetalX” treatment… lucky I was in a well ventilated area… 2 Parts “MetalX” a 3 Parts Mineral Turpintine, give it a quick stir and brush on liberally. Allow to soak in for 30min apply second coat if desired (I did three coats and it struggled to take the last lot. Next I will do two coats of Primer / Undercoat and then the final top coat (maybe two coats). Insert the acrylic and treat and cut the trimmings and then paint…
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First side painted with primer.
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Look at that join it is perfect… I won’t let on the others probably look like crap but look at that join… its perfect!!!
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Hinged…
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Frame up mainly fitted… need to hinge and align properly …
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View from the inside behind the bar.
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Still have a bit to do… Have some minor adjustments to make via sanding. Then I can think about the next step and the acrylic windows and locks etc. Final paint and well actually there is heaps to do.
Interior – No longer an out door bar
No longer really classed as an out door bar because it is now fully enclosed, whilst far from finished it is now starting to look like a fun place. We have are ready had a few gatherings, laughs and served a few drinks here. Me and my partner have had dinner down here a few times over summer and well it is now a usable spot.
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Looking at the bar through the french doors before the walls
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Painted
Finally doing parts behind the bar… well it is my birthday so what better place to be doing stuff on… behind the bar…
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Looking at the bar through the french doors before the walls
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Lower outer wall
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Cutting the upper outer wall
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Decided to keep using the dwag as a bottle shelf and use the extra light.
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Just little touch ups around the ceiling and we can put stuff back. I think it needs paint to match the rest of the bar???
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Painted and smaller bench and shelves put in behind the bar.
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Behind the bar
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The Bar
It has come a long way since is original build as just a bar on a patio that we had just done and then build the deck. Now a nice place to relax in and have a few drinks… (good thing is not too far to walk home.) There were times where I thought I would not be able to get it done, but it is finished and is a great spot.
We were going for the modern rustic look, modern with the finished painted look, but rustic since we used ply and not GiB, and did not fill in any of the imperfections etc… instead of filling any gaps in between the ply joins we used thin strips of wood etc… We believe we achieved the look… Tell us what you think of it.